Turf Disease is a common problem which occurs in spring and summer and plagues lawn enthusiasts each season. Most people run out to the local garden center and buy a bag or two of expensive fungicide to apply to the disease once it has started to take over. There are better ways.

There are a number of issues which contribute to the infestation of disease. By eliminating the problems, you can reduce the chance of the turf being attacked by disease.

Water - watering deeply and less frequently, the roots of the grass will grow deep into the soil keeping drainage at its optimum. Watering the often and for short periods of time will keep the roots at the surface creating a barrier which does not allow the water to drain properly. The root system also dries out fast as the top surface of the soil heats up from the sun quickly. When you water also matters greatly. The best time to water is in the early morning hours. This will allow the turf to absorb all the water it can, and the water that is left on the surface will be evaporated by the sun. Watering in the late afternoon or evening is a big cause of disease. The lawn will absorb what it can, and what is left, stays in the thatch and on the blades of grass until morning. This is like inviting disease over for dinner.

Water Saving Tools - Two specialty tools worth mentioning here are the Deep Root Irrigator and Rainforest Ecological Sprinker, for optimum water saturation without accumulation of water or unneccessary runoff.

The Deep Root Irrigator is a long hollow steel spike that is inserted into the ground near shrubs or trees. A hose is affixed to the top and water is literally injected into the root area to deliver much needed water without having wasteful runoff.

Rainforest Ecological Sprinklers contain a specially designed spinning head that smashes the water droplets as they leave the sprinkler to deliver a fine mist throughout the turf area, saturating the area deep into the root system without creating water runoff. Both tools help in the prevention of both wasteful water usage and pooling of water which in turn creates fungal disease.

Aerate - Aerating the lawn brings necessary oxygen to the roots of the plants. It also reduces compaction of the soil allowing the roots to grow more easily and healthier. A gas powered lawn aerator, aerating shoes, and/or reducing foot traffic will help to reduce soil compaction.

Thatch- Thatch is a layer of dead matter that forms between the turf and the soil. This is where many diseases originate. Water cannot easily pass through thatch, therefore creating a wet layer at the base of the grass. Use of a Thatching machine or thatching rake will reduce the amount of thatch in the lawn. It will also help the turf to grow thicker and healthier. If you have heavy thatch and thin turf, once you thatch the lawn (Use a gas powered thatching machine, it will save you hours and hours of backbreaking work) be prepared to overseed the lawn. The best time to thatch and seed the lawn is the fall.

Fertilizer - Fertilizing with high levels of nitrogen and using fertilizers that are not balanced, (ex: 32-4-8 or 25-3-5) can encourage lawn fungus. Use a fertilizer that has a slow release nitrogen in it, or better yet use a balanced organic fertilizer. Chemical based fertilizers generally have a high nitrogen content for that quick green effect. Although Nitrogen can be helpful to certain diseases is can make others grow and spread. Use of an organic fertilizer will give you the same dark green effect by using a balance of many nutrients. You will also fertilize less often with organic products, as they have a slower release.

Fungicides - Fungicides work best as a preventative. By applying a fungicide at a preventative rate (usually half) you can stop a problem in its early stages. When you have full blown disease in the turf many things occur. Disease is rampant, the turf is thin and stressed and now the fungicide must be applied at a curative rate (heavy rate) to stop the disease. Fungicides can actually hasten the return of new healthy grass.

Shade - Shady lawns have a tendency to stay wet for longer periods of time. Most turf grasses also require full sun. This is why it is so difficult to get a nice thick turf in the shade. Thinning of large trees and shrubs will allow more light to the turf, helping to reduce disease.

By taking these preventative measures, the lawn will be healthier in a more natural way. By implementing natural care practices we can reduce the amount of chemicals applied to our lawns, reduce the leaching of these chemicals into our waterways and keep our hard earned cash where it belongs, in the bank.